White Irissime (2012)

White Irissime by Jacques Fath, launched in 2012, was conceived as both a tribute and a modern continuation of the house’s celebrated fragrance legacy. The name itself—White Irissime—is a poetic invention, blending the French word "iris" with the superlative suffix "-issime", a term used in French to intensify meaning. Pronounced "ee-ree-seem white", it loosely translates to “the most iris-like”—now softened and made luminous by the addition of “White.” This name evokes clarity, light, and refinement, suggesting a perfume that embodies both purity and luxury.

The fragrance is a modern homage to Iris Gris, Jacques Fath’s legendary 1947 creation, revered for its ethereal beauty and rare orris content. White Irissime followed the 2009 release of Irissime, and like many contemporary launches of the early 2010s, the “White” iteration aligned with prevailing trends. At that time, perfumery had developed a taste for sheer compositions that emphasized luminous florals, delicate fruits, musks, and "clean" accords. “White” fragrances typically carried associations of elegance, freshness, and understated sensuality—qualities that appealed to a generation seeking polished femininity and soft sophistication over bold or animalic intensity.

In 2012, the fragrance landscape was shaped by two intersecting currents: a revival of niche and heritage scents rooted in storytelling and craftsmanship, and a continued mainstream preference for airy, easy-to-wear compositions. White Irissime straddled both worlds. It honored Jacques Fath’s historic reverence for iris, while adapting it to a contemporary audience with a fruitier, more transparent construction. Fashion at the time was similarly characterized by a blend of nostalgia and innovation—ladylike silhouettes, pastel palettes, and an interest in vintage couture reemerged alongside a desire for clean lines and minimalism.

For the woman of 2012, White Irissime would have resonated as an elegant signature—sophisticated, but never overpowering. The name alone would suggest a fresh, modern femininity softened by romantic memory. Interpreted in scent, White Irissime would conjure the whisper of powdery petals, the shimmer of early morning light on silk, and a sense of serene confidence. While not radically unique in its structure, it stood apart by the lineage it honored—carrying forward the soul of Iris Gris, but dressing it in white.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? White Irissime by Jacques Fath is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: pear, bergamot, raspberry and pink pepper
• Middle notes: iris, lily-of-the-valley, peony and violet
• Base notes: musk, sandalwood, cedar and amber accord

Scent Profile:

White Irissime by Jacques Fath opens with a sparkling, tender brightness—a symphony of fruit and spice that lifts delicately from the skin. The first impression is the crisp, dewy sweetness of pear, its juicy flesh capturing the coolness of a spring morning. This fruit note is supported by a soft tartness from raspberry, offering a slight acidity and velvety brightness—less sugary than berry candy, more like the delicate whisper of fresh berries crushed by hand. From the citrus groves of Calabria, bergamot lends its refined bitterness, green and floral at once, rounding the fruit and adding a polished luminosity. A touch of pink pepper (often from Réunion or South America) brings a gentle spice—rosy and effervescent—adding a sparkle to the fruit and emphasizing the floral notes to come.

As the scent blooms, it transitions into a bouquet that feels like a soft-focus pastel watercolor. The star, iris, makes itself known not in powdery grandeur, but in a subdued and buttery way—evoking the earthy softness of orris butter. This note, typically derived from aged rhizomes of the Florentine iris, imparts a creamy, slightly rooty texture that binds the floral heart. Lily-of-the-valley brings a green, watery sharpness—fresh, innocent, and airy—cutting through the iris’s weight and keeping the heart buoyant. Peony, with its soft, pink petal scent, feels transparent and subtly rosy, while violet—bolstered by ionones, a class of aroma molecules responsible for its sweet, powdery quality—brings a wistful, almost nostalgic softness, as though one were brushing against silk.

The drydown reveals the quiet sophistication at the heart of White Irissime. A soft, clean musk anchors the fragrance, reinforcing the "white" impression—cloud-like and intimate. The sandalwood, ideally Mysore or a sustainable alternative, brings a creamy, slightly sweet warmth, enhancing the powdery iris and soft fruits without becoming too heavy. Cedarwood, especially the Virginian variety, adds a dry, pencil-shaving woodiness that supports the structure with quiet authority. Finally, the amber accord (a blend of vanillic, resinous, and musky components) provides a golden glow—never overly sweet, but warm and slightly balsamic, like the last slant of sunlight through gauzy curtains.

Together, White Irissime feels like a scented whisper—intimate and refined. It conjures images of white silk dresses, pear blossoms carried on a breeze, and soft morning light filtering through linen. The synthetic elements, such as ionones in the violet and clean musks in the base, are expertly balanced to enhance the realism and airiness of the naturals, giving the fragrance its signature ethereal glow without sacrificing complexity. It's not just a modern fruity floral—it’s a quiet tribute to legacy, delicacy, and understated elegance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.