Ellipse (1972)

Launched in 1972, Ellipse by Jacques Fath arrived at a time when perfumery was shifting away from the overt femininity of the 1950s and early '60s and embracing boldness, abstraction, and androgynous complexity. The name Ellipse, from the French word of the same spelling, is pronounced "ay-LEEPS" in French or "eh-LIPS" in English. Literally, an "ellipse" is a geometric shape—an elongated circle—but in literary and artistic terms, it also signifies something left unsaid, a graceful omission, a mystery hinted at rather than explained. This dual meaning—mathematical elegance and poetic restraint—makes Ellipse a fitting name for a perfume that is structured, modern, and quietly enigmatic.

Choosing Ellipse as a name may have reflected Jacques Fath Parfums' desire to present a perfume that was both contemporary and cerebral, suggesting movement without chaos, sensuality without excess. It conjures a visual of sleek lines, modern silhouettes, and sophisticated restraint—qualities mirrored in the chypre-leather scent itself. The era of the early 1970s was marked by social upheaval and the evolution of women’s roles, both in society and in fashion. Women were redefining power dressing, exploring independence, and embracing perfumes that strayed from the powdery florals of the past. A name like Ellipse would have resonated with women seeking structure, modernity, and a sense of confident allure.

In scent, Ellipse presents as a dry, yet warm chypre with a dominant leather accord, anchoring the fragrance in strength and sophistication. It opens with a sharp burst of citrus and aromatic herbs, refreshing and bracing. This introduction is brisk and slightly austere, reflective of the clean, tailored style of early 1970s fashion—where sleek suiting and minimalist color palettes were in vogue. Soon, the heart of the fragrance unfolds into a complex floral mélange: rose, jasmine, tuberose, and carnation bloom together not in a lush, heady bouquet, but in a slightly green, textured composition that feels more like petals pressed between the pages of a leather-bound book than a fresh garden.

The base is what truly defines Ellipse. Oakmoss, exotic woods, musk, and, most prominently, leather, give the perfume a commanding presence—elegant but never sweet. The leather note is dry, earthy, and slightly smoky, evoking gloves, saddles, or even a vintage handbag; it’s restrained, not animalic, lending gravitas rather than overt sensuality. As the scent lingers, it softens subtly but remains structured—true to its elliptical namesake.

In the context of its time, Ellipse stood apart. While the 1970s saw the rise of aromatic chypres (Aromatics Elixir, Halston, Coriandre), many leaned more heavily into green or aldehydic territory. Ellipse, with its leather core and subtly floral heart, bridged the classic and the modern, appealing to the discerning woman who preferred elegance over flamboyance and sophistication over sweetness. It fit into the trend of bold, tailored scents while maintaining Jacques Fath’s legacy of couture refinement.

Ultimately, Ellipse was a scent of quiet command—less a statement shouted, more a signature whispered. It captured the essence of a new kind of femininity in the early 1970s: powerful, intelligent, refined, and deeply intriguing.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ellipse by Jacques Fath is classified as a dry, but warm chypre fragrance for women with dominant leather note. Citrus and aromatic herbs, a complex floral with rose, jasmine, tuberose and carnation. A base of oakmoss, exotic woods, leather and musk.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot oil, Italian tangerine peel, Persian galbanum, green note accord
• Middle notes: Russian coriander, Jamaican nutmeg, Provencal lavender, French carnation, eugenol, Riviera jasmine, Portuguese tuberose, Manila ylang ylang, American honeysuckle, Bulgarian rose, Florentine orris
• Base notes: leather, Siberian pine, Moroccan thuja, Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, English wormwood, Indonesian patchouli, Tonkin musk, ambergris, Spanish labdanum, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin

Scent Profile:

 Ellipse by Jacques Fath opens with a vivid, complex impression that is both structured and sensuous—an elegant paradox, much like the shape from which it draws its name. The top notes unfurl in a crisp rush of aldehydes—most notably C-10 (decanal) and C-12 MNA, those sparkling, slightly waxy compounds that lift the entire composition with an airy brilliance. These aldehydes, often described as "champagne-like," give the opening a glistening effervescence, balancing the richness that follows.

Into this brightness flows the sun-drenched zest of Calabrian bergamot oil, known for its lively, tangy-green profile. Bergamot from Calabria is particularly prized for its complexity—less bitter than other citrus oils, it brings a slightly floral nuance, like the rind of a fruit warmed by the Mediterranean sun. Italian tangerine peel follows, sweet and honeyed with just a hint of pith, while Persian galbanum introduces an assertive, green sharpness—resinous, balsamic, and earthy. This galbanum, sourced from the slopes of the Zagros mountains, lends the fragrance a fern-like freshness that anchors it in nature. The green note accord, likely a blend of cis-3-hexenol and other grassy synthetics, enhances this effect with the dewy aroma of crushed leaves and stems.

The heart of Ellipse blossoms with a rich floral harmony, threaded through with aromatic tension and spicy warmth. Russian coriander, with its citrusy brightness and peppery edge, introduces a bracing herbal contrast to the lush middle. Jamaican nutmeg and eugenol (the principal component of clove oil) contribute warmth and structure—nutmeg lending a creamy spiciness, while eugenol brings a sharper, carnation-like heat. These pair seamlessly with French carnation, which intensifies the floral-spice interplay with its clove-scented petals.

Next comes the creamy opulence of Portuguese tuberose and Manila ylang ylang, their tropical sweetness layered with a waxy, indolic richness. The ylang ylang, grown in the humid warmth of the Philippines, imparts a full-bodied, almost banana-like character that blends beautifully with American honeysuckle—sweet and nectarous, with a mild green undercurrent. Riviera jasmine, grown in the flower fields around Grasse, brings its animalic sparkle and narcotic intensity, while Bulgarian rose adds depth and complexity with its unmistakably velvety, honeyed aroma. Florentine orris, derived from aged iris rhizomes, completes the heart with a dry, powdery woodiness that smells both earthy and refined—like pale suede laced with violets.

As Ellipse dries down, its warmth gathers in a base that is resolute, sensual, and slightly feral. The leather accord is both dry and smoky, supported by Siberian pine, which contributes a sharp, resinous coolness. Moroccan thuja, a rare and pungent wood oil, deepens the dry warmth with a camphorous edge, blending into the sweet, smoky softness of Virginian cedar. Haitian vetiver, with its crisp rootiness and smoky grain, plays against the bitter, earthy-green note of Yugoslavian oakmoss, a cornerstone of traditional chypres.

From the woods, we slip into darker terrain—English wormwood adds a bitter, absinthe-like note; Indonesian patchouli, aged for depth, brings a damp, humid earthiness tinged with chocolate and tobacco. Spanish labdanum—sticky, ambery, and leathery—adds a resinous richness that softens the sharper elements. The animalic side is underscored by Tonkin musk, Ethiopian civet, and a whisper of ambergris, all of which lend sensual depth, warmth, and an almost human skin-like softness to the drydown. Mysore sandalwood, creamy and meditative, lies at the heart of the base—rich with lactonic woodsiness that’s nearly extinct in modern perfumery. Finally, Venezuelan tonka bean and coumarin wrap the composition in a velvet dusting of sweet hay, almond, and vanilla, leaving a dry yet luminous trail.

Ellipse is the olfactory equivalent of a sculpted silhouette: tailored but fluid, soft yet powerful. Its construction is masterful, its presence commanding, and its story told through each note—one breath at a time.

Bottles:

In 1974, Ellipse by Jacques Fath was presented in a distinctive bottle that reflected the era’s fascination with bold geometry and modern sculpture. Designed by acclaimed French sculptor Serge Mansau—renowned for his innovative approach to perfume bottle design—the flacon is striking in its simplicity and strength. The body of the bottle appears as a solid, weighty block of glass, sleek and architectural in silhouette. Its most memorable feature is the oversized spherical cap that crowns the structure, yet this sphere is intentionally imperfect: it looks as though a quarter segment has been sliced cleanly away, lending it an asymmetrical, avant-garde feel. This visual tension between solidity and subtraction mirrors the fragrance itself—structured and elegant, with unexpected softness. Produced in France by Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, a glassmaker known for its precision and craftsmanship, the bottle is both modernist sculpture and luxury vessel. It captures the essence of Ellipse—a fragrance that curves subtly within its own classic framework.

Product Line:

In 1977/1978, Ellipse was available in the following:

• Parfum Presentations: Elegant and modern bottle with stylized shapes (0.25 oz, 0.5 oz, 1 oz)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash bottles (2 oz, 4 oz, 8 oz); Atomizer and its refill (3.5 oz)

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1974, the production of Ellipse by Jacques Fath expanded beyond France through a licensing agreement with the Syrian company Kachian Takieddine. These perfumes were marketed in distinctive navy blue boxes, marked with the statement: "Fabrique en S.A.R. sous licence des PARFUMS JACQUES FATH PARIS par Kachian Takieddine." This phrasing indicated that the fragrance was officially manufactured under license in the Syrian Arab Republic. This version of Ellipse was reportedly lighter in character, with a softer sillage and a subtler presence—rendering it particularly suitable for daytime wear or warmer climates, where a gentler interpretation of the original would be more appealing.

Despite the official license, discerning fragrance wearers and collectors have long noted that the French-produced version—still sold concurrently and housed in elegant white boxes—was notably richer, deeper, and more enduring. These white-boxed editions maintained the original formulation’s dry chypre intensity, rich leather and mossy undertones, and nuanced complexity. They were considered the superior version, with greater longevity and projection. Many have observed that the French version retained the unmistakable Jacques Fath sophistication, whereas the Syrian edition, while pleasant, felt simplified and less refined.

Ultimately, Ellipse was discontinued by 1984, reportedly due to internal disagreements between business partners, which brought an end to both the French and Syrian production. Though no longer available commercially, Ellipse remains a sought-after treasure among vintage perfume collectors—a fragrance remembered for its sculptural presence, sophisticated structure, and the elegance that defined the house of Jacques Fath.

Buyer Beware!

Unfortunately, during the 1990s, counterfeit versions of Ellipse by Jacques Fath began to surface, primarily originating from Poland. These imitations were typically found in 25ml Eau de Parfum spray bottles, often housed in white boxes that attempted to mimic the design language of the original French packaging. However, collectors and connoisseurs quickly noted discrepancies in both the construction of the bottle and the quality of the fragrance inside.

The fakes lacked the finely sculpted design details of the original Serge Mansau bottles produced by Saint-Gobain Desjonquères. The scent itself was often described as a poor imitation, missing the refined chypre structure and distinctive leather and floral interplay that defined the authentic Ellipse. Instead, these counterfeits were marked by harsh, synthetic top notes, an unbalanced composition, and a short-lived drydown that failed to capture the warm, dry sophistication of the genuine article.

As a result, vintage perfume collectors today are highly cautious when purchasing Ellipse, especially when encountering 25ml spray versions in white packaging. The existence of these counterfeits has made provenance and seller reputation critical when acquiring this now-rare fragrance, underscoring the enduring desirability and legacy of Jacques Fath’s original creation.

photos used in this post are from: ebay sellers antiklife44 and irinmihalna