Irissime Noir (2014)

Irissime Noir by Jacques Fath, launched in 2014, is both a continuation and a reinvention — a fragrance that draws from the legacy of the house’s iconic Iris Gris (1947) and the 2009 relaunch, Irissime, while embracing the darker, more sensual direction of 21st-century perfumery. The name “Irissime Noir” is a clever blend of elegance and drama. “Irissime” — a French neologism roughly translating to “most irisy” — evokes ultimate devotion to the iris flower, while “Noir,” the French word for black (pronounced “nwah”), signals a deeper, richer, more enigmatic interpretation. Together, the name suggests a shadowed variation of iris — iris after dusk, swathed in mystery and velvet.

The 2010s saw a wave of perfumes embracing the “Noir” theme, tapping into consumer desire for intensity, seduction, and sophistication. This was a decade steeped in dualities — minimalism in fashion paired with opulence in scent, and a rising trend for gender-fluid, statement fragrances. “Noir” scents promised drama: more spice, more woods, more warmth. In that cultural landscape, Irissime Noir arrives as the perfect counterpart to the ethereal floralcy of Irissime. Where the 2009 scent was soft and luminous, Noir is sumptuous, sensual, and quietly daring.

Ellipse (1972)

Launched in 1972, Ellipse by Jacques Fath arrived at a time when perfumery was shifting away from the overt femininity of the 1950s and early '60s and embracing boldness, abstraction, and androgynous complexity. The name Ellipse, from the French word of the same spelling, is pronounced "ay-LEEPS" in French or "eh-LIPS" in English. Literally, an "ellipse" is a geometric shape—an elongated circle—but in literary and artistic terms, it also signifies something left unsaid, a graceful omission, a mystery hinted at rather than explained. This dual meaning—mathematical elegance and poetic restraint—makes Ellipse a fitting name for a perfume that is structured, modern, and quietly enigmatic.

Choosing Ellipse as a name may have reflected Jacques Fath Parfums' desire to present a perfume that was both contemporary and cerebral, suggesting movement without chaos, sensuality without excess. It conjures a visual of sleek lines, modern silhouettes, and sophisticated restraint—qualities mirrored in the chypre-leather scent itself. The era of the early 1970s was marked by social upheaval and the evolution of women’s roles, both in society and in fashion. Women were redefining power dressing, exploring independence, and embracing perfumes that strayed from the powdery florals of the past. A name like Ellipse would have resonated with women seeking structure, modernity, and a sense of confident allure.

In scent, Ellipse presents as a dry, yet warm chypre with a dominant leather accord, anchoring the fragrance in strength and sophistication. It opens with a sharp burst of citrus and aromatic herbs, refreshing and bracing. This introduction is brisk and slightly austere, reflective of the clean, tailored style of early 1970s fashion—where sleek suiting and minimalist color palettes were in vogue. Soon, the heart of the fragrance unfolds into a complex floral mélange: rose, jasmine, tuberose, and carnation bloom together not in a lush, heady bouquet, but in a slightly green, textured composition that feels more like petals pressed between the pages of a leather-bound book than a fresh garden.